Driving in Sicily may seem intimidating, but if you know what to expect you can easily plan an incredible Sicilian road trip in search of pristine beaches, ancient history, and the perfect cannoli!
Why not use public transportation?
Public transportation in Sicily isn't as easy to use as in other regions of Italy. Some of the challenges with train travel in Sicily are the speed and frequency of trains, disruptions to service, and the sometimes inconvenient location of train stations. Regional and local buses are available, but it can be complicated to figure out which bus lines to use.
Many of Sicily’s most beautiful and historic destinations are difficult to reach using public transportation, and relying on trains and buses can limit your itinerary. Having your own transportation will give you the freedom to get off the beaten path and find the best of what Sicily has to offer. If you're ready to get behind the wheel and take your Sicilian holiday into your own hands, here’s everything you need to know!
10 Things to know about driving in Sicily
1. Be aware of road conditions
Many roads in Sicily stay in a constant state of needing repairs, turning your driving experience into a game of “don’t hit the pothole”. Sicilian roads are also notorious for being very narrow. Like, narrow enough to give a passing car a high five. In some cities the roads seem to get more and more narrow with each turn, until it feels like you may get wedged between the walls on either side of you!
Roads in Sicily also have a tendency to flood when it rains, so I would recommend staying on main roads or highways during rainy conditions. You should also be aware of a variety of other road hazards, ranging from volcano ash to crossing sheep, goats and other livestock. Just be observant of your surroundings and you’ll be fine!
2. Go with the flow or get out of the way
Most people in Sicily drive extremely fast. I’m not sure if they just like driving fast or if they’re always late. Regardless of the reason, if you’re not used to driving fast it can be dangerous. Don’t feel that you have to match their speed. If you feel more comfortable driving slowly, just stay as far to the right as possible so faster cars can pass you. Despite the narrow lanes, every road seems to have an invisible extra lane down the middle that is used arbitrarily by cars driving in both directions for passing.
On any road with multiple lanes, drive in the right lane unless you are passing. This is a law! Always pass on the left, but use caution. Especially if you are driving on a two lane road, where passing can sometimes be like a real-life game of chicken.
3. Flashing lights do NOT mean "go"
When cars flash their lights at you, it’s a warning that they are coming. This is an important distinction from the U.S., where flashing lights mean you are giving permission for the other driver to go. So if someone flashes their lights at you, I recommend that you wait until they pass before pulling out into traffic.
4. Road signs are your best friend
Navigating can be quite difficult in Sicily, especially in the historic centers of its cities. There are endless numbers of one-way streets, causing one wrong turn to end up in a 10 to 15 minute detour. Road signs can make all the difference and save you from making costly mistakes, but they can be overwhelming if you don’t know how to read them.
The colors and shapes of road signs mean different things. Circles usually tell you about a regulation or limit, while triangles warn you of dangers or hazards. Red signs tell what you CAN'T do, and blue signs tell what you CAN do. Remember that just because a sign is posted does NOT mean people are going to do what it says. For example, speed limits, no passing, stop and yield all tend to be optional. Drive defensively, and always assume the people around you are not going to follow the rules.
It’s also helpful to know which cities or towns are on the route to your final destination. When you’re exiting a highway or deciding which way to turn at a crossroads, there will not always be a highway name or number. Most often, there will be signs pointing in the direction of different towns or cities. So you have to know which towns to drive through in order to get to where you are going.
5. Pay attention at toll booths
The highway that runs from Catania to Messina, and Messina to Palermo is a toll road. You'll get a ticket at the first booth you go through, then pay at the next booth. When driving through toll booths, pay attention to the signs above each lane. Unless you have a rental car with a Telepass, always go through the line that has pictures of coins and credit cards above it.
Some toll booths have lanes that exit the highway. If this is the case, the sign above the lane will say the name of the city it exits to. If you accidentally exit at a toll booth, you’ll either need to find a way to turn around and get back on the highway, or let your GPS reroute you to the next on-ramp.
BE AWARE of people who stand at toll booths and ask you for money. A legitimate worker will never ask you for money unless they are INSIDE the booth. If someone walks up to you at a toll booth where you are retrieving a ticket, just ignore them, get your ticket from the machine, and keep driving. If necessary, hold up your phone to record them. They’re harmless scammers just looking to take advantage of people who don’t know any better.
6. Parking is complicated
Street parking in Sicily is often scarce and can be confusing. As with road signs, colors and shapes are important. White painted lines mean you can park there and it’s free. Yellow lines mean no parking, or restricted parking for special permits. Circular shaped street signs with blue and red lines will also tell you if there are limitations for stopping or parking on one side of the street or the other.
Blue lines painted on the street designate paid parking zones. Look for signs showing the cost, as well as times of the day that are paid versus free. Signs will also list whether you can pay for parking with a mobile app. When using a mobile app, place a piece of paper on your dashboard with the name of the app you paid with.
The paid parking zone above costs .87 euro, or 87 cents, per hour on work days (indicated by the little crossed hammers), between the hours of 8:30 am and 1:30 pm, and from 3:00 pm to 8:00 p.m. This means that parking would be free outside of these hours on work days, as well as on Sundays. Italy defines work days as Monday through Saturday.
If there isn’t a parking app indicated on the sign, you need to pay at a machine to get a ticket. Place the ticket on your dashboard so you don’t get a fine. You do NOT want an Italian parking fine. They will take your house, your retirement, and your first born child!
7. Windshield washers are not dangerous
People who wash windshields at stoplights are typically refugees trying to earn money. One or two euro coins is plenty. If you don’t want them to wash your window, just shake your index finger no and they’ll move on to the next car. They are usually very respectful and grateful for anything you give them.
8. Roundabouts are not for sissies
Roundabouts can be confusing and intimidating, especially for drivers from the United States who aren’t used to them. Don't be scared, just jump in there and give it a go. Give the right of way to people who are already in the roundabout, but don’t hesitate too long or you’ll create a backup of cars behind you. If it’s especially busy, slowly start to inch out and someone will usually slow down to let you in. I call this being politely aggressive. After being let in, make sure you give a "thank you" wave.
Once in the roundabout, don’t change lanes until you’re approaching your exit. Then move to the right to exit. And for the love of all things holy do not stop inside a roundabout! If you miss your exit, don’t panic. You can always go around again. And again.
Roundabouts are not for the faint of heart, but you can do it if you stay focused. You just need to have nerves of steel and confidence in yourself. If not, the other drivers will smell your fear and prey on it.
9. Honking is a form of expression
Honking in Sicily doesn’t necessarily mean people are angry. Italians in general are very passionate and expressive people, and this comes through in their driving. Honking is simply a form of communication, and can have a variety of different meanings.
Honking is sometimes used for questions like “May I come through?”, “Why aren’t you going?”, or “Why are you stopping?”. Not angry, just to the point.
Honking can also be used for warnings such as “Watch out, here I come!” or “You can’t go that way.”
The length and number of honks have different meanings. A short honk can either mean “thank you” or “excuse me”, while a long honk usually means you’ve done something wrong. In this case, you can interpret the long honk as whatever string of bad words you deem appropriate. A long honk accompanied by a hand gesture is reserved for particularly severe infractions.
10. Mopeds and motorcycles rule the road
The main rule here is to always be on the lookout. As in the rest of Italy, mopeds and motorcycles basically do whatever they want, including driving between cars, on shoulders, and down the middle of the road.
They will also drive around and stop in front of you while you are waiting at a red light. There aren't many traffic lights here, but when there are you will see mopeds and motorcycles lined up between the lines of cars, on the center line, AND in a pack in front of all the cars that have already been waiting. There's no use getting angry, just go with it
You are now ready plan a Sicilan road trip with no fear, so where will your Sicily travels take you? If you enjoyed reading this, drop me a comment!
Check out some of the other articles on my European Destinations page or read more about my Sicilian adventures below!
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